QUETZALTENANGO

Quetzaltenango, the second largest city in Guatemala, is a fantastic place to explore the rich traditions and cultures of Western Guatemala. "Xela" is set among majestic hills and volcanoes and offers quick foot and bus access to a fascinating array of pueblos and natural settings.

Nestled within the mountains that encircle Xela is Zunil, whose stunning and sublime natural scenery has inspired painters to capture it's beauty on the canvas. Of all the pueblos in western Guatemala, Zunil has been the most successful in preserving its beauty and cultural traditions. You can still witness the ceremonies dedicated to San Simon, the town's patron saint who is revered among Zunil's 100 percent indigenous population as having divine powers.

Just forty-five minutes further up the mountains, shrouded in the mist of the cloud forest, you will discover a natural hot springs paradise, Las Fuentes Georginas. Its volcanic hot springs flowing in man-made pools plus a restaurant and bungalows with fire places, make this one of the most relaxing and romantic places in Guatemala.

Founded in colonial times, Salcaja boasts the oldest Catholic church in Central America. Salcaja just recently celebrated its 498 birthday. Just thirty minutes from Xela, Salcaja is famous among Guatemalans for its traditional indigenous fabric woven on oversized looms. Salcaja is also famous for its caldo de frutas, or fermented fruit liquor. This illegal beverage has a unique flavor similar to sherry.

Almolonga, fifteen minutes away, is a completely agricultural indigenous community. Its abundant harvest of potatoes, carrots, onion and cilantro are grown for local and foreign consumption. Locals and tourists are drawn to Almolonga's hot spring sulfur baths which originate from the underground veins of the volcano Santa Maria. Renown though out the region for their medicinal value, these one hundred year old sunken baths are enclosed to ensure privacy. Los Vahos, natural steam rooms located on the mountain above Almolonga, is also a place known for its panoramic view of Xela.

For a true Guatemala experience, visiting San Francisco El Alto on Friday is a must. It is the largest weekly market in Guatemala. You can purchase a dazzling array of goods such as locally grown produce, high quality clothing, handicrafts, and even farm animals! Climbing up to the rooftop of the local cathedral offers and serial view of the colorful market and surrounding countryside.

You'll recognize San Andres Xecul by the rainbow on the town's rooftops, an image created by dyed threads being dried to make the guipil, the stunning embroidered blouses worm by Guatemalan indigenous women. The yellow cathedral, decorated with designs of guipiles, portrays the importance of the traditional clothing in the community.

Totonicapán, forty five minutes from Xela, lies at the heart of the most populous region in the country. The area is the home of the first indigenous independence movement in 1821, which was the year of Guatemalan independence. Atanacio Txul, the local king, declared Totonicapán independent from colonial authority. Momostenango the center of wool textile production, is also worth the hour long bus trip to climb Los Riscos.

HOME OF HOPE

The presence of street children is a new but growing problem in the major cities of Guatemala. These children are orphans, runaways from abusive homes, or outcasts of extremely poor families who are unable to feed them. There are about 30 street children in Quetzaltenango. Most of them have not reached their teens yet, but have already lived on the streets for more than three years. They sleep outside in the cold, and sniff glue to cope with hunger and loneliness. Since they have neither education, nor basic social skills, they cannot obtain employment to feed themselves. With the increase in poverty in the cities and the added effects of crime, drug addiction, and alcoholism, the presence of street children increases every year.

Escuela de la Calle (EDELAC), an organization formed in Quetzaltenango in 1994, has dedicated itself to addressing the problems of the children living in the streets. In November 1995 EDELAC asked English social worker, Gavin Barker, to help them create a home for the street children. Having managed a residential home for young people with social problems in London, Gavin committed to spend at least a year in Guatemala to help make life better for the children of the streets. In January 1996, the organization located a house which has been transformed into a residential home. The children participated in this development process, and they visited the home almost every day.

The Hogar de Esperanza (Home of Hope) opened on the 10th of February, 1996. It now gives six children a safe place to live and provides three meals a day, a clean bed, weekly therapeutic meetings, self-esteem building adventure activities, education and an assigned advocate to each child. In addition, the home administers a daytime work and education program for homeless teenagers and is currently seeking a house for a full-time program.

The aim of the Hogar de Esperanza is to provide these young people with a safe, caring environment where they feel secure enough to talk about and confront their problems with trained staff. Another goal is that each child who leaves the home will be literate and have basic mathematical skills and therefore be employ-able.

For young children who have lived on their own without any structure, they have adapted amazingly well to the rules and expectations of living in a family-like environment. After one month, the children overcame their addiction to glue and have become affectionate young kids instead of the hardened child-adults who survived on the streets. They cheerfully wash their dishes and sweep the floors of their house and enthusiastically participate in their education. In every respect, the children have made incredible progress in a few short months.

At present, the eight member staff of the home is primarily made up of international volunteers. Each staff person has received training in performing the daily tasks and managing potential problems within the home. The staff members all have basic Spanish skills. Although they manage to bridge most of the culture and language barriers, it is the aim of Hogar de Esperanza to replace each international volunteer with salaried Guatemalan staff by the end of the year. Right now, with an unsalaried staff, the monthly budget of the Hogar is approximately US$1,500.

The organization is self-financed through guided tours of Guatemala, including hikes, whitewater rafting, sales of baked goods to students at language schools in Quetzaltenango, benefit dance parties and the newly-opened restaurant Hogar de Esperanza, which is fully staffed by volunteers who prepare and serve a different family style meal every night.

If you would like to work with or support the Hogar de Esperanza you can contact the project at either of the following addresses:

© Copyright 1996 by Juan Carlos Aguilar and Casa de Español Xelajú